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The sight of the Viceregal Lodge is splendidly refreshing when you first huff and puff your way up the Observatory Hill.
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What is the most amazing thing about this builiding for me? The fact that it was desgined and built by the Public Works Department (PWD). The same PWD which has become synonymous with the uniformity of its buildings' ugliness and whose bridges are reknowned for the regularity with which they crumble at the smallest opportunity!
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But let's focus on Viceregal Lodge. Grand spiralling staircase. A larger-than-large fireplace. Massive wine cellar. Grand teak-panelled rooms. Majestic turrets. Huge kitchens. Dozens of galleries, verandahs and terraces. Mammoth chandeliers. Little bunkers from the two world wars. This must have been quite a place in the days when the Viceroy of India occupied it.
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In the late 1800s, this was the only building with electricity and central heating in all Shimla.
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This is the place where the decision was made to partition India.
Today, it houses Institute of Advanced Studies.
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